What Is a Visual Sign of a Start Capacitor Failure?
Motor won't start? Compressor humming but not running? A failed start capacitor is one of the most common — and cheapest to fix — causes of motor problems in air conditioners, heat pumps, pool pumps, and compressors. Here's how to diagnose it.
SAFETY FIRST
Start capacitors can store a dangerous charge even after the equipment is turned off. Always discharge the capacitor before touching the terminals. Use an insulated 20kΩ resistor held across the terminals for 5 seconds, or an insulated screwdriver (expect a spark). Work with one hand when possible to prevent current from flowing across your chest.
Behavioral Symptoms: What You'll Notice
Before you open anything up, pay attention to what the equipment is doing. A failed start capacitor produces very specific behavior:
Motor hums but won't start
The motor receives power (you can hear the electromagnetic hum) but can't generate starting torque. This is the #1 symptom of a dead start capacitor.
Critical — turn off immediatelyMotor starts slowly or struggles
The capacitor has lost some capacitance. It provides some starting boost but not enough for a clean, fast start. The motor may eventually reach speed but takes much longer.
Degraded — replace soonBreaker trips or overload pops
A stalled or slow-starting motor draws excessive current (locked rotor amps). This trips the overcurrent protection. Resetting the breaker without fixing the capacitor will repeat the cycle.
Critical — diagnose before resettingMotor runs but overheats
If the start capacitor is weak (partially failed), the motor may eventually start but the start winding stays energized too long, generating excessive heat.
Urgent — check capacitor and relayAC blows warm air (compressor not running)
The indoor fan runs but the outdoor compressor can't start. You hear a click (contactor engaging) then a hum, then a click (overload tripping). Classic failed start cap.
Common HVAC symptomBurning smell near the motor
If the motor has been trying to start repeatedly, the start winding insulation may be overheating. Stop immediately to prevent permanent motor damage.
Critical — stop and inspectVisual Signs on the Capacitor Itself
Bulging or Swollen Top
The flat top of the capacitor is domed or puffed out. Internal gas pressure from electrolyte decomposition. Definite failure.
Leaking Oil/Fluid
Brown or clear oily substance around the terminals or base. The sealed case has ruptured. The capacitor is dead.
Burn Marks or Melted Plastic
Black marks, melted terminals, or charred housing. Indicates a catastrophic short circuit. Check wiring before replacing.
Cracked or Split Casing
The plastic case has split or separated. Usually from overheating or overvoltage. The capacitor has vented.
Important: A start capacitor can fail with no visible signs at all. If the motor shows behavioral symptoms but the capacitor looks fine, you must test it electrically. See our How to Test a Capacitor guide.
How to Test a Start Capacitor
Turn Off Power
Disconnect at the breaker and verify with a non-contact voltage tester. Wait 5 minutes.
Locate the Capacitor
Usually in a covered compartment near the motor. Start caps are cylindrical and black; run caps are oval and metal.
Discharge It
Bridge the two terminals with an insulated resistor (20kΩ 5W) for 5 seconds. This drains any stored energy safely.
Read the Label
Note the µF value (e.g., 88–108 µF) and voltage rating (e.g., 250VAC). You need this for comparison.
Set Multimeter to Capacitance
Turn the dial to the -||- symbol. Some meters auto-range; others need manual range selection.
Measure
Touch probes to the terminals. Wait 3–5 seconds for the reading to stabilize.
Good
Reading is within the labeled range (e.g., 88–108µF reads 95µF). Capacitor is healthy.
Weak
Reading is below the labeled range by more than 10% (e.g., 88–108µF reads 70µF). Replace.
Dead
Reading is 0, "OL", or wildly off. Capacitor is shorted or open. Replace immediately.
How to Match a Replacement Start Capacitor
| Parameter | Rule | Example |
|---|---|---|
| Capacitance (µF) | Match exactly or within the labeled range | Original: 88-108µF → Use 88-108µF |
| Voltage (VAC) | Equal to or HIGHER than original | Original: 250VAC → Use 250V or 330V |
| Physical size | Must fit in the housing | Measure diameter and height |
| Terminal type | Match the connector (push-on, wire lead) | Most use 1/4" push-on terminals |
| Start vs Run | Never swap start for run (or vice versa) | Start = intermittent duty; Run = continuous |
Start Capacitor FAQ
What is a visual sign of a start capacitor failure?
What are the symptoms of a bad start capacitor?
What is the difference between a start capacitor and a run capacitor?
Can I test a start capacitor with a regular multimeter?
How long does a start capacitor last?
Can I replace a start capacitor with a different µF value?
Why does my AC unit hum but not start?
Can a bad capacitor damage the motor?
Need a Replacement Start Capacitor?
We stock motor start and run capacitors for HVAC, pool pumps, compressors, and industrial motors. Same-day shipping. 100% tested before shipment.
Not sure which capacitor you need? Send us the model number — we'll find the right replacement.